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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This recognition has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest shop earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.