Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to learn these stories and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.